Over the course of three years we have explored the nuances of biodegradation and natural models for transformation in order to integrate these lessons to the global textile life cycle. The threshold research was to explore the scientific literature to understand the mechanism of decomposition in various organisms; we then reviewed the literature to compile existing decomposition technologies that emulate these biological processes. In addition, our pilot partners each conducted deep analysis of waste flows in their regions to characterize what and where textiles were going. The following resources—a compilation of these learnings and more—are meant to guide industry stakeholders to better understand how biodegradation works in nature and how it can be integrated into industry to lead to a more regenerative future.

Decomposition
is Essential

Transformation
Pathways

Understanding
Textile Waste

Other
Resources

Decomposition is essential

The Nature of Fashion

This report identifies decomposition as a critical part of nature’s material cycles that is missing from current industrial thinking, and “design for decomposition and dispersal” as the quickest route to a regenerative and equitable fashion industry.

Info-sheet #1: Understanding Biodegradation & Textiles

Learn more about what it takes for biodegradation to occur, and why the same material may biodegrade in one environment and not at all in another. This is the first of three info-sheets which provides a summary of the research and the key findings from D4T’s collaboration with Leeds University in the U.K. to conduct a literature review of the existing research examining the biodegradability of textile fabrics including colorants and finishing chemistries.

Info-sheet #2: Biodegradation and Toxicity of Natural & Manmade Cellulosic Textiles

Explore the following questions: How well do natural and manmade cellulosics biodegrade? What’s the impact of dyes, finishes and treatments on the biodegradability and toxicity of these textiles? This is the second of three info-sheets which provides a summary of the research and the key findings from D4T’s collaboration with Leeds University in the U.K. to conduct a literature review of the existing research examining the biodegradability of textile fabrics including colorants and finishing chemistries.

Info-sheet #3: Biodegradation and Toxicity of Synthetic Textiles

Explore the following questions: Can synthetics be biodegradable? What is their toxicity once released into the environment? This is the last of three info-sheets which provides a summary of the research and the key findings from D4T’s collaboration with Leeds University in the U.K. to conduct a literature review of the existing research examining the biodegradability of textile fabrics including colorants and finishing chemistries.

Transformation Pathways

Understanding Textile Waste

Waste Landscape Report

This report aims to explain how clothing becomes waste and how it impacts the landscape of the city of Accra, home of Kantamanto, the world’s largest  secondhand clothing market.

Netherlands Pilot— Opportunities Assessment Methodology & Insights

This Opportunities Assessment focuses on D4D’s Global North Pilot in Western Europe, where 1-2 decomposition pathway(s) for textile waste will be demonstrated in the municipality of Rotterdam (Netherlands).

Climate Deal Textiles Rotterdam

In September 2021, Eigendraads was commissioned by the City of Rotterdam to conduct a feasibility study on textile recycling as a first step towards the potential realization of a circular textile hub in the region.

Resetting Fashion Podcast

This three-part podcast series Resetting Fashion has been developed to provide insight into the textile chain, the challenges, opportunities and possible solutions. In this series, journalist Dore van Duivenbode, together with four sorters ReShare, Erdotex, Boer Group and TexNL and textile chain expert Hilde van Duijn, dives into the world of discarded textiles.

Germany Pilot Opportunity Assessment—Beneficial Design Institute

Textile and policy waste analysis of Germany, with a special focus on Berlin. This deliverable, which is one of two Opportunity Assessments for Germany, outlines the preliminary phase of work when scoping the potential for a pilot.

Germany Pilot Opportunity Assessment—Regenerate Fashion

Textile and policy waste analysis of Germany, with a special focus on Berlin. This deliverable, which is one of two Opportunity Assessments for Germany, outlines the preliminary phase of work when scoping the potential for a pilot.

Methodology of Toxicology Assessment of Textile Waste in Accra, Ghana

This presentation outlines the methodology of the toxicology assessment which is investigating the ubiquitous nature of microplastics, particularly microfibers, and their consequential implications on ecosystems and human health in the Densu and Volta estuaries of Ghana.

Brief on Microfibers

Herein lies the timely opportunity for The Biomimicry Institute to contribute ecosystem expertise that’s currently lacking in microfibers discussions, as well as leverage this role to lead the circular economy narrative that embraces decomposition pathways and values fibers as future nutrients.

Estimating the Biodegradability of Chemicals

This is a summary of the literature review conducted by the Yale School for the Environment, Center for Green Chemistry and Green Engineering focused on the challenges of estimating biodegradability using common standardized testing methods. This literature review is expected to be published in 2025.

Understanding Biodegradation: A Walkthrough of Yale's Biodegradation AI Predictive Model

This video walks you through a searchable AI tool developed by the Yale School for the Environment, Center for Green Chemistry and Green Engineering to more accurately predict the biodegradability of new and existing chemicals. While the tool is in the very early stages, it should augment existing tools in the space.

Other resources

The Laudes Foundation has provided catalytic funding for this ambitious project.

Our Partners